The Mixed Message of 'Green' Remodeling

I've been gradually completing my LEED Green Associate training these past few months (hoping to take the exam some time in August)...its fascinating to see the difference between the content of the training and the popular impression of what it means to be LEED certified.  Sure, I've been learning quite a bit about sustainable materials (bamboo, cork, etc.), insane R-value insulation, and energy efficiency (all I can say is - thank goodness for dimmable CFLs!)  But a good part of the curriculum focuses on aspects of construction & remodeling that have been a 'no-brainer' for me for years, things like avoiding unnecessary waste and reusing existing materials.

Growing up, renovating historic properties with my father, these 'green' measures were both a necessity (no sense in paying for dump fees to remove perfectly good materials when they could easily be repaired or repurposed) and a philosophy (historic preservation aims, by definition, to preserve the existing structure and materials of a building whenever possible rather than needlessly using up new, limited building materials resources.)  The way I learned things, when you take down a 100 year old wall, you save as much of the framing as possible - the old lumber is so much higher quality than it is today.  It seems much more respectful of the environment to take a few extra minutes and carefully disassemble an old wall rather than just ripping everything apart with a Sawzall.  I even save the wooden lath (that the plaster is applied to) to use as shims!  And instead of throwing out leftover materials, I try and find creative ways to use them on different projects - right now, for example, I'm working on a proposal to resurface a laminate bar using the leftover bamboo flooring from another project - a low cost, low waste solution that will end up looking like a more expensive version of butcher block.

I think of issues like these a lot whenever I see 'green' remodelers offering to rip out 100-year-old minimally damaged oak flooring and replace it with bamboo, a project that creates several tons of waste that could easily be avoided.  I'd opt instead for repairing the damaged oak boards (perhaps even using reclaimed oak flooring) and refinishing the existing floors.  

I'm completely in favor of incorporating as many green building principles into new construction as possible; it just seems that there's a bit of confusion about how to apply green building techniques to remodeling existing buildings.  I see a lot of contractors that stress the environmentally friendly nature of the products and materials they install, while at the same time adhering to a 'complete gut job' strategy of renovation, even when it isn't remotely necessary.  

You've Come a Long Way, Vinyl Tile

This winter - arguably one of the chilliest we've seen in years - I was continually reminded of what a good idea it was to install groutable vinyl tile in my kitchen instead of stone or ceramic.  Not only is it inexpensive and easy to install, but it isn't freezing underfoot in the morning like stone or ceramic tile is after a chilly night.  I've used groutable vinyl tile in three properties now, including my own home, and in each case buyers and visitors have refused to believe that the floor is made out of vinyl tile.  A combination of higher quality material with more variation, beveled edges, and leaving space for grout makes these tiles almost indistinguishable from ceramic tile.   Vinyl tile costs about $1 per square foot (1/3 or less what comparable ceramic tile costs per square foot), and has lower installation costs - all you need to cut and shape tiles is a good utility knife.  The photo to the left is a vinyl tile floor in a kitchen I renovated in Medford (the kitchen reno was still in process when the photo was taken, as you can see, but this is the best shot I have of the floor.)  Vinyl tile is also great because it is a fairly thin material and is lightweight and flexible, so it can cover over small imperfections in the smoothness of the floor surface without the need to lay or pour a new subfloor.  If you try to do that with ceramic tile, you'll have a bunch of cracked and broken tiles on your hand.  So, here's to you groutable vinyl tile.  My feet and my budget thank you.

Quick Fixes on the Fly

Sometimes we work on properties that need a little tweaking after the first staging phase.  Its impressive how small the changes can be that make a huge difference. One property in Medford a few years ago kept getting feedback from buyers that they were looking for something "a little more modern."  We swapped out the formal living room furniture for a low-slung modern sectional and white shag carpet from Ikea, and changed the dining room light fixture from a traditional-looking one to a modern and interesting looking chrome and glass fixture that we found on discount from one of our suppliers.  (We kept the other chandelier and used it on a later project.)  These small changes were enough to completely change new visitors' impressions of the property.... go figure!

Disguising Pipe Chases

Often in the course of current or past remodeling, in order to avoid opening up walls, remodelers create a 'chase' in the corner of the room through which wires or pipes are run from lower floors to upper floors.  One of my favorite things to do is brainstorm ways to make these awkward constructions look like an 'intentional' part of the design.  Some of my favorite ways to deal with them:
- Add a matching chase on an opposing wall and run a false 'beam' between them with recessed lighting.
- Add molding to the top & bottom to make it look like a column - add additional 'columns' to the room to enhance the affect.
- In a kitchen, build the pipe chase out to cabinet depth and put a false cabinet frame and door over top to disguise it.
- Build a pipe chase into a deep closet - no one will ever notice that missing 6" of space.
- Build a pipe or duct chase into a regular sized closet and convert that closet to a linen closet.  This is especially effective for hall closets.
- Make the pipe chase one side of a substantial, built-in hutch or set of shelves.  We created a beadboard, vintage looking pantry area in one home that hid a gas line, water line, and drain in one hollow side of the 'furniture.'  In another home, we built a dramatic spice cabinet to hide water lines that had been run along the surface of the kitchen wall.
In most cases, the effort you spend disguising the pipe chase pays off both in affordability (its much easier and cheaper than opening walls and relocating the pipes) and in value.  The custom work to make the pipe chase attractive can add architectural detail and useful storage space to the home.

Outdated Electrical Switches & Plugs

Nothing derails a remodeling or staging product like outdated and mismatched electrical outlets.  It's a small detail, easily overlooked, but it makes a big difference. I've seen so many houses where the owners have painstakingly painted and decorated the entire house, only to have old brown and almond outlets, obviously decades-old switches, or corroded switch plates make the property look dated and in need of work. While the wiring that serves them is often in excellent shape, old plugs and switches make the home look like it's in need of updating.  Fortunately, switching out old plugs to new tamper-resistant plugs is a breeze.  The materials cost is only $1 or $2 per plug, and the work is a breeze for an experienced electrician.  And at the end, these small changes are the final detail that presents the picture of a modern, updated, move-in ready home.

Bathroom Facelift Brainstorming

Here I am again, geeking out on how to save money on bathroom facelifts.  This bathroom is an excellent example of one that does not need major renovation to look great.  First, a good going-over with high concentration bleach should get rid of most of the dinge and mold.  Next, I'd carefully pry off the black accent tiles and replace them with white chair rail style tile, available at any home improvement store or supplier.  I'd replace the vanity with one of the "Chelsea" vanities they have on sale at Home Depot these days - they look nice, have a vintage style, and cost around $140 for the sink and cabinet.  I'd paint the walls a neutral color, install frameless shower doors, put molding around the outside of the medicine cabinet to make the mirror look more substantial, and add faux wood plantation blinds to the window in the shower.  The blinds are plastic, so they won't rot, they'll keep water from hitting the window when people shower, and they'll add an impressive custom look to the room during showings.  I can't see the floor in this picture, but I know a place that sells 12" white marble tile for $2 a square foot - and I'd recommend those on the floor to complete the vintage look. While a total gut job of this bathroom would cost a minimum of $6,000, an investment of less than $1,000 plus labor costs could add about the same amount of value to the property.

Brick Pattern Tile-Setting

One way to make tilework look more expensive is to lay it in an unusual pattern (diamond, herringbone, brick, and roman are just a few) or to add a liner or other decorative element to break up a large expanse of tile.  We've found that the most cost effective way to amp up the appearance of a new floor, backsplash, or shower surround, is to use inexpense square tiles set in a brick pattern.  On a floor or in a shower, a brick pattern tile job can make the space appear larger if it's oriented in the right direction.  It is also the easiest and fastest of the patterns to lay, does not require expensive accent tiles (which can run well over $25 per square foot), and is uncommon enough that it is likely to draw an 'ooh' of admiration from potential buyers.  Our tried and true kitchen backsplash, for example, uses matte 4"x4" bisque tiles in a brick pattern - the combination of the unusual matte finish and the unusual tiling pattern makes this $0.69/square foot backsplash an easy rival to those costing $10 per square foot and higher.

Exterior Facelifts

I came across this photo on MLS today while browsing listings for a client.  It could be such a cute house, with the right changes.  But right now it looks oddly proportioned, and the white siding looks stark and boring against the dark green trim. It wouldn't cost that much money, however, to give this house a major facelift.  I'd have a handyman lighten the dark green trim to a sage, tan, or a warm gray - the dramatic contrast of the dark green just isn't working with the white siding.  I'd also paint the J-channels above and below all the windows in a darker tone than the house's trim color to add interest, and put flowerboxes on all the windows of the enclosed porch, planting them with low-maintenance evergreen plants that will look good  throughout the year. The bottom two to three feet of siding around the porch should be removed and replaced with lattice (if there is plywood behind the siding, I'd paint the plywood black and then cover it with lattice that's pre-painted in the color of the trim - it will look like the porch is open below, even though it isn't.)   I'd also put a more substantial light fixture by the front door and paint the door red or chestnut brown.  These small changes would completely change visitors' (and online shoppers') first impression of this house - from drab and in need of work, to bright and charming.